Pati's Mexican Table

Pati's Mexican Table tag:patismexicantable.com,2009-05-04://3 2010-01-07T16:01:15Z Movable Type 4.34-en 2010-03-09T14:00:00Z Chayote Squash tag:patismexicantable.com,2010://3.232

Chayote, also called chayote squash (it is from the squash family), choko, vegetable pear, mirliton and christophene, is a beautiful pear like shaped vegetable. Ironically, it has a texture similar to a pear that isn't ripe, but less grainy. Yet...

Pati Jinich

Chayote, also called chayote squash (it is from the squash family), choko, vegetable pear, mirliton and christophene, is a beautiful pear like shaped vegetable. Ironically, it has a texture similar to a pear that isn't ripe, but less grainy. Yet the chayotes isn't wholly sweet, it just has a sweet hint, barely a whisper, really. Its flavor is more neutral, like a cross between a pear and a cucumber... and zucchini. Well, you just have to give them a try.

Crispy, watery, very low-fat, with a clean and wholesome feel, chayote can be used many ways. Most typically in soups, as a warm vegetable side, a cold salad or very popularly stuffed either with a sweet or savory spin. They are most times cooked and best al dente, unless eaten stuffed (continue for more information and photo).

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There are different kinds of Chayotes. These here in the photo are probably the most common, and the easiest to find outside of Mexico. They are mild, with a mild green color and a mild, friendly and accommodating flavor. There are some that have a darker green color, and even purple tones, with thick and short thorns throughout their skin.

Chayotes tend to store well. They can last for more than a couple weeks in the refrigerator.
]]> 2010-03-06T01:00:00Z Cilantro tag:patismexicantable.com,2010://3.243

Cilantro is also known by many names like culantro, coriander and even Chinese parsley. Although it didn't originate in Mexico, it has grown such strong roots in its cuisine, to the point that its hard to think about Mexican cooking...

Pati Jinich

Cilantro is also known by many names like culantro, coriander and even Chinese parsley. Although it didn't originate in Mexico, it has grown such strong roots in its cuisine, to the point that its hard to think about Mexican cooking without it.

It has delicate, paper thin leaves and tender stems. Its deep green color tends to be shinny too.
it is used for countless foods including being a key ingredients of many salsas, guacamoles and pico de gallo. It is used to flavor beans, rice, salads, stews amongst some dishes. It is even placed frequently on the table in a bowl, just as an optional garnish for tacos, antojos and soups. In the last couple decades it has even become quite popular for smoothies and juices (continue for more information and photo).
]]> Cilantro has a distinct, strong and pungent flavor. Most people tend to like it. However, the few that don't, tend to feel so strongly about it: they can't stand it. Those I have asked about their dislike, usually say that it was since they can remember. A couple have referred to a detergent taste (see I was listening to you Ceci...). But most people that like cilantro, don't recognize those flavors... So it just might be in the genes...

I am part of the group that really likes it. But I try to use it judiciously. A couple sprigs are usually all it takes to add what cilantro can bring.

]]> 2010-03-05T19:00:00Z Old World and New World: Yellow Rice tag:patismexicantable.com,2009://3.204

Pati Jinich

Though I am no painter, this I know to be true:

Throw in the four primary colors onto a painting palette and mix randomly. Whatever combination you come up with, there will be a Mexican rice that catches the spirit of those tones.

Red rice, cooked in a rich base of tomato puree, onion and garlic, and sometimes chopped vegetables. Depending on the cook and the style, sometimes red rice may end up a bit on the orange side. Green rice, either based on Poblano chile, cilantro, parsley or a combination of those, giving a beautiful range of flavors along those grassy lines. Black rice, seasoned with cooking broth from beans in the pot. White rice, the classic yet flavorful Mexican take that can be an unpretentious yet comforting side to almost anything. And we are not even getting started.

What many people don't know is that Mexico also has its versions of Yellow rice.
]]> From the two main kinds of Yellow rice in Mexican cooking, one has a saffron base and the other an achiote or annatto seeds base. Ironically, although saffron was brought to Mexico by the Spaniards almost five centuries ago and achiote seeds are native to Mexico, it is the saffron based rice which is considered to be the Traditional Yellow Rice in regions like Yucatán.

But given saffron's high price tag, many cooks opt for achiote which is ridiculously cheap. Although it can be sometimes a bit hard to find in mainstream stores, most Latino, international or ethnic stores have it. You can always opt to click an online button to find it too...

With a similar color, and the same range of flavors, achiote seeds are a great substitute.

The difference aside from price, is the way in which both ingredients are used to bring out their unique flavors, aromas and colors, when making rice.

Saffron threads are soaked in water...

...and added to the rice after it has been sauteed in oil and the broth poured on top....

Achiote seeds, instead, are sauteed in oil for 2 to 3 minutes. Once they paint the oil and let out their flavors, they are removed with a slotted spoon before they become too bitter and right before the rice is poured in the pan. Some cooks dilute powdered achiote seeds in water, which can also be found in some stores, and do the same as with saffron. I prefer the version that uses the whole seeds much more.

Both ingredients, one from the Old World and one from the New World, have hard to describe flavors that somehow escape my words. But let me give it a shot: A bit smokey, a bit pungent, a bit bitter and strong, with a defined personality. What's more, both ingredients help make an exotic, beautiful and tasty Yellow rice.

Here is a take on the saffron based rice that I love and that won over a great crowd. Try it, then you can tell me if it is really that good, or it may very well be that the great crowd had been waiting too long to eat during class, and that's why they liked it so.

YELLOW RICE
Serves 3-4

INGREDIENTS
1/2 teaspoon saffron threads, crumbled
2 tablespoons boiling hot water
1 cup long or extra long white rice
2 tablespoons safflower or corn oil
1/4 cup white onion, chopped
1/4 cup red tomato, chopped
1 garlic clove, minced or pressed
2 cups chicken broth
3/4 teaspoon kosher or sea salt, more or less to taste

TO PREPARE
Place saffron threads in a small mixing bowl along with the boiling hot water. Mix and let soak for 10 to 15 minutes.

Place rice in a bowl, cover with very hot water, and let soak for 5 to 10 minutes. Drain, rinse with cold water, and drain thoroughly.

Heat the oil in a 3 to 4 qt pan over medium-high heat. Once the oil is hot, add the dried rice and saute for 1 to 2 minutes. Incorporate the onion, tomato, and garlic, stir, and continue to cook until the rice changes color to a milky white. It should sound and feel heavier, as if you were moving sand in the pot, about 4 to 5 more minutes.

Pour in the chicken broth, saffron mix, and salt and stir everything together. When the liquid starts to boil, cover the pot, lower the heat to low and continue cooking for about 20 more minutes, or until the rice is cooked through and the liquid has been mostly absorbed.

If the grains don't seem soft and cooked through, add a bit more chicken stock or water and let it cook for another 5 minutes or so. Turn the heat off and let it sit covered for 5 to 10 minutes. Fluff with a fork and serve.

Rice can be made ahead of time and reheated later the same day. Before reheating, add 1 tablespoon of water and heat, covered over the lowest heat possible. Once it has cooled down, it can be kept in a closed container in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.

]]> 2010-02-26T03:55:00Z Ancient Ways for Comfort on Cold Days: Mexican Hot Chocolate tag:patismexicantable.com,2010://3.237

Pati Jinich

Story goes, that for centuries, a woman could find a mate in many Mexican regions if she was able to make a good and considerable amount of foam when making hot chocolate. Otherwise, suitors would not turn their heads to her direction regardless of any other virtue. What's more, it was the mother of the groom to be, who judged how good the foam was.

Thankfully, my mother in law (who loves to dip Conchas in hot chocolate) didn't abide by that tradition or I wouldn't have gotten married. When I met my husband, the best I could whip up were some descent scrambled eggs and an extremely sweet limeade. Forget about a worthy, frothy, delicate, silky foam to top a rich tasting chocolate.

But it turns out that producing an admirable chocolate foam may be a sign of things to come: it may show how hardworking, dedicated, focused, energetic and skilled a person can be. Not only do you have to break a sweat, but also develop an effective technique and then there is also the matter of style...
]]> No easy feat: Think capucchino foam, with no machine. Using an ancient tool passed down through generations just for this purpose always helped, and does to this day.

The molinillo is made from a single piece of wood, with moving rings, shapes and indentations carved into its different parts, a sturdy bottom base to rest on a pot, a soft round handle for an easy rubbing of the hands, plus gorgeous decorations. All with the aim of being able to make the best quality, and most amount, of foam.

A whisk is not the same. But if you don't have a molinillo, you can substitute. Just use it as you would a molinillo, with a vertical tilt and rub it between your hands as if you were trying to warm them up. Photos are sometimes better than words...

You have to beat like mad.

Crazy, really.

Leaving the foam aside, what matters most is the flavor of Mexican chocolate. Which I want to get to fast, because it is about to snow again, it is cold, and there are few things that are as comforting, filling and soothing as a Mexican hot chocolate.

Mexican style chocolate bars are made with toasted cacao beans ground with white sugar, almonds, cinnamon, and sometimes vanilla. There are other variations, but I think this is the basic one. In Mexico, there are molinos, or mills, that are dedicated to doing only this and they smell like chocolaty heaven.

If you find Mexican chocolate bars already prepared, like the authentic Oaxacan chocolate of El Mayordomo (though there is an increasing number of new makers) or more easily available and tasty ones like Chocolate Abuelita or Ibarra, you only need to add it to milk or water, heat it, mix it, and if you want some foam, work out a little.

If you can't find them, here is how you can get the same rich result.

Grab a couple ounces bittersweet chocolate of good quality, a small piece of True cinnamon, white sugar and almond meal...

Almond meal is the already finely ground almonds. But you can also finely grind your own. Trader Joe's has an excellent one, which as the label says, its good for baking & breading and I guess they can also add For Mexican Style Hot Chocolate too...

Place those ingredients in a sauce pan and add milk, which is my preference, or water or a combination of both, and some vanilla extract.

Set the pan over medium heat, and once the chocolate dissolves remove from the heat. Beat the chocolate with a molinillo or a whisk, I really recommend that part.

In Mexico there are tall pots made specially for beating the chocolate, called chocolateros, but any sauce pan will do...

Forget about being worthy of a mate.... The satisfaction of drinking that hot, thick, creamy and tasty chocolate, at the same time as the frothy, cloudy and delicate foam touches your lips, is worth the while.

MEXICAN HOT CHOCOLATE
Serves 2

INGREDIENTS
2 cups milk and/or water
4 oz bittersweet chocolate of good quality
1 True cinnamon stick of about 2 inches
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
4 tablespoons almond meal, or finely ground almonds
4 tablespoons sugar, more or less to taste

TO PREPARE
In a saucepan add the milk or water with the rest of the ingredients. Set over medium heat until the chocolate has completely dissolved and the liquid is simmering.

Remove the pan from heat, and if you so are inclined, beat with a whisk or molinillo, until the hot chocolate has a thick layer of foam on top. Serve while very hot.

]]> 2010-02-19T17:45:00Z Pastel de Tres Leches tag:patismexicantable.com,2010://3.234

Pati Jinich

Pastel de Tres Leches or Three Milk's Cake, is one of the most, if not the most popular and sold cake throughout Mexico. It is also amongst the most requested recipes I have been asked for after Pickled Jalapeños and Piggies cookies. So dear readers, I am sorry it has taken this long but here it goes! I promise to get to the other requests, which I love getting on your emails, as soon as possible.

Tres Leches is a sweet, practically wet, homey cake. Its base is a vanilla sponge cake, completely soaked in a sauce traditionally made with three kinds of milk: sweetened condensed milk, evaporated milk and regular milk. Some versions substitute regular milk with heavy cream. The cake will sometimes have a topping like fresh whipped cream, which I seriously consider of utmost necessity (!). Sometimes the topping turns out to be meringue or even chocolate ganache.

Growing up in Mexico City, there was a bakery called La Gran Via, which sold such delicious Tres Leches that even though it was far from home, we used to drive many Sundays to get one. These days La Gran Via has become a large chain store of bakeries... it has been years since I have eaten one of their cakes. This recipe, is as close as I get to my nostalgic memories.
]]> To make the sponge cake as fluffy as can be, start by beating the egg whites until they hold soft peaks. Add the sugar and keep on beating until they hold stiff peaks.

Separately beat the egg yolks until thick, creamy and very pale in color and add some vanilla.

I really feel the need to take a photo of the vanilla and show it to you. It's Mexican vanilla from Papantla, the place where vanilla originated. And just look how pretty the bottle is...

...If I am showing you the bottle, let me show you the box. Because it is even prettier than the bottle. You can see there in the label, that the company Gaya, has been making it since 1873, with centennial traditional methods (I have no links to the company, I just think their products are outstanding). Its flavor and aroma, just blows me away...

Then pour the egg yolks (look at how thick and pale the egg yolks are after beating them for 4 to 5 minutes, that's what you want) with that hint of vanilla, onto the egg white mixture.

Pour it all on top...

Gently, with a spatula, in evolving motions, combine the yellow with the white, being careful not to lose much of the volume and fluffiness already achieved.

Once well combined, add the flour and incorporate it in evolving motions.

Pour that batter onto the prepared pan, buttered and lined with parchment paper.

It is a simple cake batter: just egg whites, sugar, egg yolks, vanilla and flour. But it turns out fluffy, homey and spongy because of the way these ingredients are used.

Into the oven for about 25 minutes, until the cake has a nice tanned crust, it is spongy to the touch and a toothpick comes out clean.

After you get the cake out of the oven, invert it onto a plate and poke all over with a fork, or two forks. You want to help the cake find ways to absorb the sauce you are about to make.

There goes the condensed milk and the evaporated milk into the regular milk, and a bit more vanilla.

Some modern versions of the cake add other kinds of flavors into the sauce, like chocolate, cajeta (Mexican goat's milk version of dulce de leche) or Rompope (Mexican eggnog). If you like a hint of alcohol in your desserts, go ahead and pour in some Rum or Kahlua.

Pour all the sauce on top...

Though not all versions of the cake have whipped cream on top I think it is of the most absolute necessity. Life or death. NEED it. Spoon it. Spread it.

The cake tastes much better when it has had a chance to soak in all of that sauce and when it is cold. So it is a good idea to cover it and refrigerate it for at least an hour.

It is simple to eat, simple to see, simple to make. It is a simply unfussy and tasty dessert that is somewhat neutral, so it can take many variations. Of course you can add some fruit on top or in between, fresh strawberries work really nice here, its your choice.

The fluffy yet completely wet cake holds its shape as it gives in to the flavor of the sauce. The whipped cream, as you can see, just needs, needs, needs to go on top. It makes such a nice contrast with the wetness and sweetness of the cake. After you try it, let me know what you think. Whipped cream on top?

TRES LECHES CAKE
Serves 10-12

INGREDIENTS
For CAKE
9 eggs, separated
1 cup sugar
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
2 cups all purpose flour

For SAUCE
1 can sweetened condensed milk
1 can evaporated milk
1 cup milk
1 tablespoon vanilla extract

For TOPPING
2 cups heavy whipping cream
1/4 cup confectioners' sugar

TO PREPARE
Preheat oven to 360 degrees. Butter a 9 x 13 inch pan, lining the bottom with a piece of parchment paper cut to fit the pan.

Pour the egg whites into the bowl of your mixer and beat on medium-high speed for 4 to 5 minutes, or until they hold soft peaks. Slowly stir in the sugar and continue beating until they hold hard or more stiff peaks. Turn off the mixer and with a spatula, move the egg white mixture onto a large mixing bowl.

Rinse the bowl of the mixer and its whisk. Now pour the egg yolks into the bowl of the mixer and beat on medium-high speed for about 5 to 6 minutes, or until the egg yolks become creamy, puffy and their color has toned down to an almost cream color rather than a loud yellow. Stir in the vanilla and continue beating for another minute. Turn off the mixer.

Pour the egg yolk mixture onto the egg white mixture and with a spatula, in evolving motions, combine them into a homogeneous single batter. Do so gently trying not to lose much volume from the mixture. When fully combined, fold in the flour, scraping the bowl with the spatula so that all the flour is well mixed.

Pour the batter into the prepared cake pan and place into the oven for 22 to 25 minutes, or until a toothpick comes out clean. It can be a bit moist, but not wet. The top of the cake should be tanned and feel fluffy if you touch it. Remove it from the oven and let it cool.

Once it cools down, turn it onto a platter. Remove the parchment paper and cover the top with an upside down platter and invert again. The platter should be large enough to hold the cake and the vanilla sauce you are about to prepare. Using a fork, or two, poke wholes all over the cake so that it will better absorb the vanilla sauce.

In a mixing bowl, combine the sweetened condensed milk, evaporated milk, milk, and vanilla extract. Pour the vanilla sauce over the cake.

In the bowl of your mixer, whip up the heavy cream with the confectioners' sugar on medium-high speed until the mixture holds up stiff peaks, about 1 to 2 minutes. Spread the whipped cream all over the already wet cake. Then yum, eat it all up.

]]> 2010-02-17T19:25:00Z Tortilla Press tag:patismexicantable.com,2010://3.233

If you are into the habit, like me, of making your own home made corn tortillas, a tortilla press comes in really handy. It's true that tortillas can be made in many different ways such as simply flattening round corn...

Pati Jinich

If you are into the habit, like me, of making your own home made corn tortillas, a tortilla press comes in really handy.

It's true that tortillas can be made in many different ways such as simply flattening round corn masa or dough balls with your hands or rolling out the masa with a rolling pin. However, the tortilla press makes the process be a speedy, consistent, fun and even therapeutic one (it is!).

Moreover, look at what a pretty tool it is (click here for more information and photo).
]]> Here is what a tortilla press looks like when closed. Sitting on my chair. Mine is cast iron, but you can also find aluminum and wooden ones. I prefer cast iron, but don't mind aluminum as long as it is heavy and sturdy. I find the wooden ones a bit tricky to use.

This is what one looks open, ready for you to use. As you see, there are some pieces of plastic cut in rounds -from produce bags is perfect.

A plastic round is placed in the bottom of the opened press, so you can place a corn dough or masa ball, top with another plastic round and then simply close the press, and press it down.

You can make many more things than tortillas on tortilla presses too, like chalupas (oval shaped corn dough patties) and sopes (thicker than tortillas round corn dough patties with a rim) just to name a few.

What's more, kids love to use tortilla presses and make shapes with the corn masa. Which can actually make some of the speediness of the process achieved with a tortilla press, slow down a bit too. Oh well, there is always a trade-off...

]]> 2010-02-11T23:00:05Z Romancing The Avocado tag:patismexicantable.com,2010://3.230

Pati Jinich

"Avocados are, to me, amongst the most sensuous, luscious and luxurious of ingredients. Add how delicious, soft and subtly flavored they are, and you get a clear winner for Valentine's Day.

Despite the many pounds of avocados we go through at home each week, regardless of the infinite number of cases I use for events at Washington, DC's Mexican Cultural Institute, and notwithstanding that my sisters and I used them for hair and face treatments as we were growing up (all those nurturing natural oils and vitamins), I still find avocados to be wow-inducing.

If there's an avocado dish on a restaurant menu, it lands on my table.

So if I am planning a menu, especially with a hint of romance, avocados will be there..."

Article written for and published by National Public Radio's Kitchen Window. To read entire article and to get recipes for Stuffed Avocados with Hearts of Palm and Artichoke Salad, Avocado, Pistachio and Watercress Mousse, Avocado Soup with Tortilla Crisps and Fresh Cheese, and Chopped Egg and Avocado Sandwich, click here in Kitchen Window.

]]> 2010-02-09T18:30:00Z Acitrón tag:patismexicantable.com,2010://3.231

Acitrón is one of the few ingredients used for Mexican cooking that is still very hard to find outside of Mexico. Acitrón is made with the pad or paddle -leaf- of a cactus plant called biznaga, which is similar to...

Pati Jinich

Acitrón is one of the few ingredients used for Mexican cooking that is still very hard to find outside of Mexico. Acitrón is made with the pad or paddle -leaf- of a cactus plant called biznaga, which is similar to the prickly pear but rounder in shape and it also grows in dry land. To make acitrón, the leaves are peeled off the outer skin along with the little thorns, sometimes soaked in a lime solution, dried in the sun and finally simmered in a syrup made with water and sugar or honey, then left to dry again.

In Mexico it is sold in stores and markets in square or rectangular small blocks along with other candied fruits or vegetables, of which my favorite is the candied sweet potato or camote (continue for more information and photo).
]]> Acitrón, with its pleasant and mildly sweet flavor and chewy consistency, is mixed with other ingredients ironically heightening the flavors of those other ingredients. It is used to make many dishes such as the famous Chiles en Nogada, picadillos or meat fillings for other chiles and tamales, in their savory or sweet takes, as well as in breads like Rosca de Reyes and also just as a candy.

For dishes that call for acitrón, if you can't get your hand on any, you can substitute with candied pineapple, mostly the kind that comes without a heavy sugar coating.

]]> 2010-02-01T14:20:00Z Chipotle Guacamole for any Party (or Disaster) tag:patismexicantable.com,2010://3.229

Pati Jinich

I am not one to prepare for disasters.

People can tell me a thousand times that severe thunderstorms are approaching, that a dry spell is forcasted or that a shortage of something essential like water (or coffee) will happen, and no, I will not be among the first to run for shelter nor stock up on provisions. I don't know if it is my continuous belief that despite humps and downs eventually things turn out OK or if I am lacking an alarm button...I just don't panic.

When I took it as a serious matter to go to the grocery store in the middle of my working day, at a rather inconvenient time, it wasn't because there is a strong snowstorm coming (though my boys did give me an absurdly long grocery list to prepare for it), it was because we ran out of avocados.
]]> The grocery store was wild: an insane crowd was moving around the isles, lines like I have never seen at the cashiers and empty shelves throughout. But oh!...there they were: some beautiful ripe Mexican Hass avocados waiting for me to bring them home.

Although we use avocados at home for an infinity of things... we also love guacamole. It just never gets old around here, nor I think, anywhere. Yet, one of the versions I like the most uses Chipotle Chilies in Adobo instead of fresh Jalapeños or Serranos.

The creamy, silky and mild nature of the avocados takes a jump into the sky when paired with the smoky, spicy, rich and complexly flavored Chipotles in Adobo.

It may be that avocados work so well with chiles, because avocados are one of their natural soothing counterpart: the spicy element in chiles called capsaicin which is an oily substance, dissolves best in other oily elements, alcohol or milk products. Avocados, being oily in such a wholesome way are the remedy to the heat in the same bowl. This being said, if you feel like pumping up the heat and flavor by adding more chipotle chiles, you may want to pair this guacamole with a nice cold beer. And while you are at it, why not scoop some Mexican style cream or sour cream on top of the guacamole too. YUM.

Needless to say, this recipe takes less than 5 minutes to prepare. But most importantly given the date, this is my loved contribution for your Super Bowl gathering... whether it turns out to be a disaster or a party (!).

Make extra portions as it flies as soon as you mix it all up. And since no guacamole is complete without corn tortilla totopos or chips, here is a link to help you make some at home.

CHIPOTLE GUACAMOLE
Serves 6

INGREDIENTS
2 large ripe Haas avocados, about 1 1/2 lb, halved, seeded, meat scooped out and diced
1/3 cup white onion, chopped
1/3 cup roughly chopped cilantro
2 tablespoons lime juice, freshly squeezed
1 teaspoon kosher or sea salt
2 tablespoons chipotles in adobo sauce, seeded and chopped, more if desired
Tortilla chips, toast squares, pita chips, crackers or vegetable sticks, optional

TO PREPARE
Gently mix ingredients in a bowl and serve.

Guacamole can be prepared up to 12 hours in advance if covered and stored in the refrigerator. Eat on its own, as a side, as a topping, or scooped with tortilla chips, toast squares, pita chips, crackers or vegetable sticks.

]]> 2010-01-29T16:25:00Z Sweet Conchas! tag:patismexicantable.com,2010://3.227

I can finish a normal sized Concha, 4 to 5" round, in exactly four bites. If it has been a long time since I had one or if I am very hungry, maybe three bites. Ok, I admit it, sometimes...

Pati Jinich

I can finish a normal sized Concha, 4 to 5" round, in exactly four bites. If it has been a long time since I had one or if I am very hungry, maybe three bites. Ok, I admit it, sometimes two bites. But never one.

Conchas are named after the shape of their sugar topping, which resembles a seashell. Conchas do have a hardened crust, but it is sugary, thick, crispy and crumbles right into your mouth as you take a bite. Right after you brake through that crust, there is a fluffy, soft, sweet roll made with flour, butter, yeast and eggs. With such a pleasing experience, no wonder it is one of Mexico's most favorite sweet rolls or pan dulce.

I have seen some in bakery shops around DC, but they just don't taste like the ones we love at home. So on our most recent trip to Valle de Bravo in Mexico, I ventured with my boys, and many of their cousins and aunts, into a panadería, or bread shop. They make such incredible conchas, it makes me wish I had a bigger mouth to eat them each in a single bite.
]]> This panadería, named Santa María, like most in Mexico, has 2 daily shifts for making fresh breads of all sorts. On the second shift of a Monday afternoon, Mrs Agustina López, who runs the bakery, saw my little battalion and announced that they give baking classes to little cooks.

As the kids got a very hands class from her son Félix, master baker there, I soaked up all their secret ingredients and techniques, which they were very happy to share.

First of all, they have a beautifully aged and seasoned giant mixer. The kids took turns throwing (yeah, throwing) the flour, salt, yeast, water...

They were attempting to also throw the eggs into the mixer. See? I had to put my camera down to convince them that really, those eggs needed to be cracked first, though it seemed more fun to throw them all in. Just like that.

After, the roaring giant mixer helped knead a soft, gooey, elastic and very moist batter.

Félix showed them what that dough felt like. Then he left it to rise, and took it to another giant piece of equipment: a batter cutter.

Juju seemed to not believe his luck with those beautiful pre-cut pieces of dough... All the possibilities!

After the kids shaped them into thick, flattened rounds, Félix demonstrated how to make the sugar cover.

Which was even more fun to make, because all you do is mix together flour, confectioners sugar and a heaven-full of butter with your hands until soft.

Half that sugar cover is mixed with cocoa powder, because some people prefer their conchas chocolaty... Or some little cooks like to throw in something else to get even more messy...

The kids were concentrated on making that sugar cover just about right before layering it on the concha dough flattened balls... Félix's bakery assistant was so kind and patient with the kids.

Now that is one charming looking oven. The moment I saw it, I imagined how just about anything baked in there has to taste so yummy...

With the bottom made out of aged earthenware tiles and brick walls...

And one can just dream of how many conchas can fit in there.... 500, 1000, 2000... Each one to be eaten in just.... two.... big.... bites.

And some whole milk on the side.

A baking sheet full of fluffy clouds coming out from incredibly experienced hands...

Layered on the racks to cool down, before buyers come to take them all away in the span of a half hour.

You may be wondering what is a handsome looking rooster doing here on this post...

Well, it turns out that Mrs Agustina López's brother, breeds roosters for fighting, or gallos de pelea, for the traditional Palenques. So it is a one stop shop: to get your conchas and your rooster!

And here were our conchas, some of which we ate right away.

And the rest placed in the takeaway bags, ready to be eaten, shortly. After admiring those handsome roosters...

CONCHAS
Makes 16 to 18 conchas

INGREDIENTS
For the dough
14 oz all purpose flour
2 eggs
1 egg yolk
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 oz packet dry active yeast
1/2 cup lukewarm water
4 oz unsalted butter or vegetable shortening, at room temeprature
5 oz sugar

For the sugar topping
1/3 pound all purpose flour
1/3 pound confectioners' sugar
5 oz unsalted butter, or vegetable shortening, at room temperature, diced
1 1/2 tablespoons cocoa powder, if you want to make half be chocolate flavored
Extra butter or vegetable shortening to assemble the conchas

TO PREPARE
Add the all purpose flour to the mixer, set with the dough hook, along with the eggs, egg yolk, and salt. Start the mixer over low speed. Meanwhile, add the active dry yeast to 1/2 cup lukewarm water and stir until creamy and well dissolved. Stir it into the flour mixture, and let it continue beating, now over medium speed, for about 3 to 4 minutes.

Incorporate the unsalted butter, keep on beating for 3 to 4 minutes more. Lastly add the sugar, continue mixing for another 3 to 4 minutes or until the dough is gooey, sticky, elastic and very smooth.

With a spatula, push the dough into a mixing bowl greased with butter or vegetable shortening, cover it with a kitchen towel and place it in the warmest area of your kitchen, where there are no wind currents. Let the dough rise for at least 2 and up to 8 hours. It should have doubled in size.

For the sugar topping, place the flour and confectioners' sugar in a large bowl. Using your hands, incorporate the diced butter into the flour mixture. Mix and knead it until its smooth and homogeneous. If you want half the conchas to be chocolate flavored, separate half of the mixture in another bowl, and mix it very well with the cocoa powder. Cover the sugar toppings with plastic wrap so they won't dry out.

To assemble the conchas, grease thick baking sheets with butter or vegetable shortening and keep your hands greased. They will need to be greased for you to shape the dough. Using your hands, make about 2 inch balls with dough. Then, slightly press them flat, as in a thick disk, but not a tortilla. Leave about 2 inches in between each of the conchas so they will have room to expand.

Once your baking sheet is filled with the dough disks, cover them with the sugar coating. To do this, grab about a tablespoon of sugar coating, plain or chocolate. Make a round ball with your hands and then flatten it thin, like a tortilla. Place it on top of the dough disk and slightly press down. It should cover most of the surface.

If you have a concha mold, press it on the sugar topping. If you don't have one, cut through the sugar topping making round lines or any decoration that reminds you of a shell.

Leave the prepared conchas in a warm area of your kitchen, uncovered, and let them rise again, for about 2 to 4 hours.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Place the conchas in the oven for about 20 to 24 minutes, until the conchas are slightly browned around the edges and look fluffed up.

]]> 2010-01-27T19:30:00Z Hibiscus or Jamaica Flowers tag:patismexicantable.com,2010://3.228

Originally from Africa or India, hibiscus flowers arrived in Mexico in colonial times and have become deeply integrated into Mexican cuisine. Often used to prepare agua de jamaica, or freshly flavored water, fruit popsicles or Jell-O, the dried flowers infuse...

Pati Jinich

Originally from Africa or India, hibiscus flowers arrived in Mexico in colonial times and have become deeply integrated into Mexican cuisine. Often used to prepare agua de jamaica, or freshly flavored water, fruit popsicles or Jell-O, the dried flowers infuse the liquid with a deep, vivid red color.

It is well known in Mexico that the flowers contain helpful diuretic and digestive properties, as well as high levels of vitamin C and other minerals. These days it is easy to get them in many stores in the US or online. They can be incorporated into many other dishes to add a peculiarly tangy taste, similar to cranberries (continue for more information and photo).
]]> When I was younger I used to enjoy playing with the flowers and pretending to make magical potions in my family's kitchen. Now that I am grown up, I keep on playing with them in my own kitchen! More modern takes of Jamaica include it in sauces for meats, vinaigrettes for salads and different kinds of desserts.

Here is a photo of them in my backyard...

]]> 2010-01-22T14:15:00Z Do You Dare? Habanero Salsa! tag:patismexicantable.com,2010://3.212

Pati Jinich

This salsa does hurt.

But just a little.

Yet it goes oh-so-well with the Pollo Pibil, which together with red pickled onions makes for a delicious Yucatecan meal. A bowl of this Habanero salsa is standard on just about every table in Yucatán. Around there, people drizzle some spoonfuls, or drops, on just about everything.

I recently found this salsa is heavenly combined with Louisiana style Bar-b-que and some baked beans (!). While it can make people very unhappy if not given a warning of how spicy it is, for the Yucatan class we had in December, the 20 batches made were gone before the middle of the meal. We did give our guests a warning... While my cooking team kept saying I was making too much, we made some bets, and much to my surprise, I won. I have learned now, that the American and international palate is much more open, than say a decade ago, for spicy foods.
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So Habaneros have become wildly popular throughout the world. Aside from their cute, happy and beautiful appearance, they are one incredible source of heat and are used to make many hot sauces that heat aficionados, like my uncle, crave for.

The photo above shows some Habaneros my husband shot at the market in Mérida, Yucatán. The photo below, are Habaneros I found here in the DC area.

This wickeldy hot sauce is really easy to make at home. Just char the chiles and garlic cloves either in a broiler, a dry skillet or a hot comal (as I did below for the 20 batches of salsa for the Yucatán cooking class and dinner).

Then, please seed the chiles.

Believe me.

You must!

While I have gotten many requests for very spicy hot sauces from some of you, dear friends... please seed the Habaneros. If not, instead of wickedly-spicy salsa, you will have a somebody-please-help-me-or-I shall-die-from-this-heat salsa.

Once charred and soft, place the seeded chiles and peeled garlic cloves in the blender or your molcajete, and puree or mash away with some salt and either bitter orange or its substitute (1/4 orange juice, 1/4 grapefruit juice, 1/4 lime juice and 1/4 vinegar).

One of the nice things about using a molcajete, aside of exercising your arm a bit, is that the molcajete stores oils, flavors and aromas of the ingredients previously used. The molcajete adds a hint of those flavors, and its stored memories, into future concoctions.

If you dare try this salsa (hey! come on, why not?), please let me know, after you get over the shock.

SALSITA DE CHILE HABANERO TAMULADA OR KUT

INGREDIENTS
4 habanero chilies, charred (seeded if you want to try to reduce the heat)
6 garlic cloves, toasted or roasted and then peeled
1 cup bitter orange, or its substitute (1/4 cup grapefruit juice, 1/4 cup orange juice, 1/4 lime juice and 1/4 cup white distilled vinegar)
2 teaspoons Kosher or sea salt, more or less to taste

TO PREPARE
Char the Habanero chiles and garlic cloves with their skin on either a comal or dry skillet over medium heat, on the grill or under the boiler. In either case, it wil take anywhere from 4 to 9 minutes, flipping once or twice in between. You know they are ready when their skins are charred and toasted and they have softened, without having the flesh burnt.

For the traditional take, peel the garlic cloves and place, along with the chiles, in a molcajete or mortar. Smash until fairly smooth. Add the salt and the bitter orange or its substitutes and mix until well combined.

Alternatively, place the ingredients in the blender or food processor and puree until smooth.

]]> 2010-01-21T02:45:51Z Habanero Chile tag:patismexicantable.com,2010://3.221

Habanero chiles are one happy looking bunch. They have colorful colors that go from green to the yellow, and then orange to red as they mature. They are small, cute, shinny and have waxy skin. But as much as their...

Pati Jinich

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Habaneros are a crucial ingredient for the regional cuisine of the Yucatan Peninsula. They are native of that region, though ironically, they are named after the Cuban city of Habana as they were traded there, heavily, centuries ago.

They are very easy to grow indoors and are beautiful to look at, so it is quite common to find them in kitchen pots, not only in Mexico!

]]> 2010-01-19T17:31:56Z Banana Pepper or Chiles güeros tag:patismexicantable.com,2010://3.222

Banana peppers are called chiles güeros in many regions of Mexico. Güero, translates to blond, name given because of their pale, yellowish color. There are different varieties or banana peppers, but they are pale and light in looks, have waxy...

Pati Jinich

Banana peppers are called chiles güeros in many regions of Mexico. Güero, translates to blond, name given because of their pale, yellowish color. There are different varieties or banana peppers, but they are pale and light in looks, have waxy skin, and a similar flavor to Jalapeños. Their heat level can range from mild to hot (continue for more information and photo).
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There is a variety of banana peppers different from the one in this photo, that is a bit more elongated in shape, which is very popular for pickling. Banana peppers are sold in many stores in the DC-MD-VA area, but if you are unable to find them, you can substitute with Jalapeños.

]]> 2010-01-14T23:00:00Z More Chorizo to Love tag:patismexicantable.com,2010://3.226

Pati Jinich

"Right off the bat, you must understand: I heart chorizo. Especially the kind I grew up eating in Mexico. It comes in deep-burnt-reddish links of fresh, moist, exotically seasoned ground meat that, once fried, becomes crisp and filling bites with bold flavors and a thousand uses.

My oldest son's quick choice for breakfast is chorizo fried until it browns and crisps, with a side of white toast. Add some lightly beaten eggs as the chorizo is starting to brown and some ripe and creamy avocado slices on the side, and that's my kind of rich-tasting brunch dish. Of course chorizo is delicious in sandwiches, in tacos and quesadillas, on top of enchiladas, in mashed potatoes, as a topping for heartier salads, in some of the tastiest bean dishes I have tried, in pastas with a ton of personality and on pizzas with pickled jalapeño peppers on top.

I am really trying to stop myself here..."

Article written for and published by The Washington Post. To read entire article and to get recipes for Mexican-Style Pasta with Tomato Sauce and Chorizo (pictured above), Cowboy Beans (Frijoles Charros), Potato, Scallion and Chorizo Crispy Tacos, and Warm Sweet Potato Salad with Chorizo, click here.
]]> 2010-01-14T16:52:57Z Tomatillos tag:patismexicantable.com,2010://3.225

Although they are widely available in the US, I don't think I have met more than a couple people here who use fresh tomatillos in their cooking. It may be partly because people are not familiar with them or how...

Pati Jinich

Although they are widely available in the US, I don't think I have met more than a couple people here who use fresh tomatillos in their cooking. It may be partly because people are not familiar with them or how to cook them, but.... they are not an appealing ingredient as far as looks go with the first impression! But let me tell you why you should definitely give them a try (continue for more information and photo).

]]> They are from the tomato family, but are much firmer than red tomatoes and less juicy. They are green and covered with a papery husk, that tends to be speckled with dirt and sometimes randomly torn or stuck to the flesh of the tomatillo. This is because the skin of the tomatillo is a bit sticky and waxy. They also have a somewhat humid aroma, from the moisture caught in between the skin and the husk along their travels and storage time.

However, don't let yourself be deceived by their cover and first appearance. Once you bring them home, peel the husk and rinse them off, you will see what a beautiful ingredient they are. They have a sensuous shape and a deep green shinny color. You will see even more beauty once you try their flavor and see all the things you can use them for.

In my opinon, they are one of the most unique ingredients in Mexican cooking. A bit tart, in a very peculiar way, they work wonderfully along spicy and sweet ingredients.

To buy them, don't be shy about touching them. You have to confirm they are firm, with a bright green color and not mushed, wrinkled or colorless, signs of being old and bitter. They should be fresh and you can tell by the husk which should be papery, regardless if it sticks to the tomatillo or not. So grab the tomatillo and peek inside the husk to see what you are getting before you put it in your basket!

]]> 2010-01-14T15:30:00Z Calabacita italiana or Italian zucchini tag:patismexicantable.com,2010://3.220

I think the most commonly used zucchini in Mexican cooking is either what in Mexico is called the calabacita italiana, or Itailian zucchini, or the calabacita bola or round squash, which is similar to the Italian but rounder and smaller...

Pati Jinich

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See the Italian zucchini pictured above. As the years have gone by, I have seen them more frequently at international and Latino stores as well as some Farmers Markets here in the US.

Below see the Italian zucchini on top of the regular green zucchini so you can compare its looks. Now you have to bring them home to taste the differences (!). Though you can substitute one for the other in recipes, the Italian is a bit milder and sweeter.

]]> 2010-01-08T04:40:35Z Comfort me with Café de Olla (or Coffee from the Pot) tag:patismexicantable.com,2010://3.219

As we returned from our 10 day vacation to Mexico this December and walked out of the Dulles airport, I felt my bones freeze. Say what? I told my husband, I think I am turning around and catching the next...

Pati Jinich

As we returned from our 10 day vacation to Mexico this December and walked out of the Dulles airport, I felt my bones freeze. Say what? I told my husband, I think I am turning around and catching the next flight back to Mexico.

Now we are home, with the heating so high it seems we moved to the Equator. And I admit that the cold and especially the snow, which I am watching right this minute through my kitchen window starting to magically fall from the night sky, is one of the things I love about living in the Eastern United States. We can experience the full change of seasons.

So instead of complaining, this is what I do: I take out my Piloncillo, or brown sugar, my bark of Ceylon or True cinnamon, some dark roasted coffee and make myself a Café de Olla.
]]> The Café de Olla is one of the most comforting things I can think of. Not only for when its cold outside. It is also wonderful to soothe the end of a rich meal or to start a cold morning with some cookies or toast on the side, or rather, dipped inside the coffee.

It is called Café de Olla because for centuries it was prepared, and still is in some parts of Mexico and Mexican homes, in clay pots. Pot translates to Olla in Spanish, so that explains the funny translation to Coffee from the Pot. The clay pot imparts a peculiar earthy and deep flavor to the coffee. But if you don't have a clay pot, that should not stop you from making it. The combination of coffee with piloncillo or dark brown sugar and cinnamon is extraordinary by itself as well.

As I am gearing up for an exciting 2010 with fascinating topics to research and recipes to try and test for the next series of classes at the Institute, there is one thing I realize never ever changes in each single menu we offer: there is always Cafe de Olla after the end of the meal for our guests. Our regulars demand it. And me and my cooking team can't start the day without it.

With the spirit of continuing to welcome 2010, from my cooking team and myself -we have been so lucky to have been together for almost three years- we wish you a delicious 2010 filled with Café de Olla to warm your soul, your belly, your cold mornings and late nights.

Here I am holding on to one, for dear life, while the winter lasts...

CAFE DE OLLA
Serves 6

INGREDIENTS
9 cups water
6 tablespoons coarsely ground dark roasted coffee
4 oz piloncillo, or about 8 to 9 tablespoons grated (can substitute for dark brown sugar) and can add more or less to taste, depending on how sweet you like it
1 cinnamon stick

TO PREPARE
Heat water in a pot. When it comes to a rolling boil, lower the heat to low and add the coffee, piloncillo and cinnamon stick. Simmer for about 5 minutes, give it a couple stirs and turn off the heat. Let it sit covered for about 5 more minutes. Strain before serving with a fine strainer or cheesecloth. Or then again, pour into a french press, press down and serve.

]]> 2010-01-06T17:00:00Z Guest on the Kojo Namdi Show: Mexican Cuisine tag:patismexicantable.com,2010://3.216

"Our Local Restaurant Worldtour continues with a look at Mexican cuisine. We learn about the exquisite alchemy of mole, find the best local restaurants (not to be confused with Sal-Mex) and taquerías, and examine the links between food and culture"Read...

Pati Jinich

"Our Local Restaurant Worldtour continues with a look at Mexican cuisine. We learn about the exquisite alchemy of mole, find the best local restaurants (not to be confused with Sal-Mex) and taquerías, and examine the links between food and culture"

Read about it and/or listen to Show
]]> 2010-01-01T17:10:05Z My Three Little Piggies tag:patismexicantable.com,2010://3.215

I have received so many requests for a Piggies cookie recipe, so here it is! Piggies can be found in many places under different names: marranitos, puerquitos, cerditos, cochinitos. All these words are used to describe a Piggie in endearing...

Pati Jinich

I have received so many requests for a Piggies cookie recipe, so here it is!

Piggies can be found in many places under different names: marranitos, puerquitos, cerditos, cochinitos. All these words are used to describe a Piggie in endearing ways. In some places, they are given different animal shapes, but still called in one way or another "Piggie". That may be because that was their original shape.

Although they are called Piggies, they should be called Flying Piggies and have wings attached given how fast they fly away from my kitchen each time I make them. Sometimes it is even hard to bake them, since my boys find the dough irresistible: its gooey, sticky, and deliciously sweet.
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Now, don't think I didn't see that little Piggie...

After they sneak away and find ways to eat some dough, they have a hard time waiting for it to harden in the refrigerator, so it can be easy to roll it out and give it fun shapes

More often than not, the Piggies end up looking like fierce lions or magical dragons.

One of the reasons why I particularly like these cookies, is because my middle Piggie, also my pickiest eater, loves them. He enjoys every part of the process to make them, except waiting for the dough to be ready.

He takes brushing them with lightly beaten egg incredibly seriously.

No easy task, you see?

And oops! There are some dinosaur shaped Piggies there too...

He loves adding confectioners' sugar. Especially after I have said "I think that's enough baby"

Most of all, he loves eating them. And I love making them because I know all the good and yummy stuff that's in them.

With firm and clean edges, Piggies are deceiving. You can't tell that their texture is so soft and almost bread-like until you take a bite. They also have a wholesome and small Pueblo flavor. I think that's because the main ingredient, Piloncillo is simply sugar cane juice, typically shaped into cones. It's easy to find, but you can also substitute it with brown sugar and get the same charming feeling. Combine all the above characteristics and you get an incredibly comforting cookie.

There goes my oldest Piggie, jumping in to get one, even before they have cooled down. He was quite mad though, because this time he missed shaping (and eating) the dough...

p.s. Piggies are perfect to accompany a hot cup of coffee or tea... Also, keep them covered, so they will remain soft and fluffy.

I tested and measured this recipe and wrote a shorter version of this Post for PaulaDeen.com

PIGGIES
Makes 30 medium sized cookies (with aprox 4" cookie cutter)

INGREDIENTS
12 oz piloncillo, chopped or grated, or substitute for 1 3/4 cup packed brown sugar
3/4 cup water
1 true or Ceylon cinnamon stick, or 2" to 3" length
2 sticks or 1 cup unsalted butter at room temperature
2 tablespoons honey
4 1/4 cups all purpose flour, may need a bit more
1 tablespoon baking powder
1 tablespoon baking sode
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 eggs at room temperature, lightly beaten
Butter to grease cookie/baking sheet
2 to 3 tablespoons all purpose flour, a bit more or less, to roll out the dough
1 egg, lightly beaten to be used as glaze
Confectioner's sugar to sprinkle on top, optional

TO PREPARE
In a saucepan, combine the grated piloncillo or dark brown sugar with the water and cinnamon. Heat over medium heat, once it simmers, adjust and lower heat to keep it at a low-medium simmer for about 15 minutes, or until it thickens to a light syrup consistency. Turn off the heat and remove the cinnamon stick. You should have now about 1 1/4 cups piloncillo liquid. Add the butter and the honey into the hot liquid, and stir until it dissolves.

In a mixing bowl, mix the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt. Make a whole in the center and pour the piloncillo mixture. With a spatula mix it all together in a circular motion until it is well incorporated. Lightly beat 2 eggs and incorporate them into the dough. The dough will be sticky and gooey.

Place enough plastic wrap in the bottom of a mixing bowl to have wings on the sides. With a spatula, push the dough onto the plastic wrap, wrap the dough, and refrigerate anywhere from 3 hours to overnight.

When ready to make the cookies, preheat oven to 375 degrees. Grease a couple cookie/baking sheets with butter. If using one sheet you may need to do a couple batches.

Remove dough from the refrigerator. On a counter top, sprinkle a couple tablespoons of flour. Rub a bit of flour on the rolling pin as well. Roll dough until you have about 1/4" thickness. Using piggie cookie cutters (or other shapes, but then you may need to change the name!), press down on dough, moving a bit on the counter top, to make it easier to lift the shaped dough.

Place Piggies on the baking sheet as you shape them along. Gently brush cookie tops with the lightly beat egg. Roll the extra already used dough, wrap with plastic wrap, and place in the freezer for at least 10 minutes before using again, or it will be too soft and sticky. Repeat to make remaining cookies.

Bake cookies in the middle rack of the oven anywhere from 7 to 9 minutes. Remove from the oven and place on a cooling rack. You may sprinkle confectioner's sugar on top. Keep them covered so they remain soft.

Kids love to eat them with a tall glass of milk, I like them with a hot cup of coffee.

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